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Spring Tour
August 2002

This is just a short excerpt from the August 2002 Tour...

We're off with another band of adventurers!
This time Joyce, Kristin, Caroline, Karen & Linda,
all from California, U.S.A., will join us as we
explore some of the most beautiful territory
in Southern Africa.

The group left the warm hospitality of Marina at Beckley House to join tour leaders, Alan, Sandy and Hawk on an African Adventure of a lifetime.

Jetlag set in on some who quickly found themselves lulled into a peaceful sleep by the rocking of the Safari Vehicle -  nickname "Shrek".  Others sat and chatted and watched the scenery change from flat grasslands to majestic mountains.

The journey was broken by various short stops along the way; to have coffee, stretch legs and munch on a lunch which consisted of a little of everything!

On arriving at the overnight stop, deep in the heart of the northern Drakensburg mountains, everyone made their way to various lookpoint points to admire the views.

The setting sun threw colours of indescribable hues across the landscape, but soon settled behind the horizon, leaving us only with our memories (and tons of photographs!)  The introduction of a bottle of Amarula Cream, a light after-dinner drink, a product unique to South Africa, which everyone found particularly pleasing, managed to raise the laughter levels another notch.

Tired, but content, everyone headed off for bed, in anticipation of Day 2 of their African Adventure.

With a night's sleep in warm and comfortable beds, the group headed out after breakfast for Bourke's Luck Potholes - here rushing water has carved out fantastic rounded shapes into the rocks.  Then it was off down the road again - with a first taste of driving on bumpy dirt roads still ahead.

Along the way fleeting glimpses of animals could be seen whilst travelling around the main road towards the next destination - Elephant Plains Lodge in the Sabi Sands Game Reserve - just in time for a late lunch.

Everyone finished lunch in time to find their rooms before afternoon tea and cake was served!  Then it was time for the first game drive in an open game drive vehicle.  It wasn't long before there was a close encounter with a large elephant enjoying a dust-bath.  Minutes later, a young male leopard was seen resting in tree - just as the sun was beginning to edge towards the horizon.

Cameras clicked like hail on a tin roof as transfixed visitors sat and watched him jump from one branch to another before settling down contentedly.

With having seen two of the Big Five - namely elephant and leopard so quickly, the idea was to find a great vantage point to watch the sun go down - no such luck; there was a bachelor herd of Buffalo to be seen first!  No-one could believe their luck - that was three of the Big Five accounted for!

Unbelievably we then came across a group of nine lions on a giraffe kill!  It was a little dark to take photos by then, but the Guide, Gideon, promised a return visit in the morning.  And so, with dinner beckoning, and darkness all around, Gideon turned for "home".  

A chance glimpse of eyes flashing in the spotlight materialised into a female leopard!!  She was followed through dense bush for a short while, before jumping up tree - in which she had hidden her kill for a night - a Grey Duiker.  The sound of crunching bones and ripping flesh could be heard as cameras again clicked and whirled - with all present astounded at such a fabulous sighting!!

Dinner around a roaring fire followed, with a glass of great red wine to wash it down, before weary bodies trundled off to bed - after all, wake up calls will come at 5.45am!!

A hot cup of tea or coffee at 6.00am in the morning, when you're still bleary eyed is very welcome!

The day started with an early morning game drive - the first stop being the lion pride on the giraffe kill.  Seeing lions so close up was thrilling - the smell from the carcass wasn't!!

While stopped for an early morning coffee break, a large herd of elephants wandered by; including the large, the small, the old and the young.  Sightings for the remainder of the drive included giraffe, kudu, impala and a very sleepy Rhino.  Five out of five of the Big Five accomplished on only Day 3!!

After a late breakfast back at the lodge, Joyce, Linda, Caroline, Karen, Kristin and Hawk all ventured off into the bush on foot - with a fully trained ranger at their sides.  They watched a giraffe loping across an open plain and were experience the bush in a more close and personal way - looking into spiders nests, learning about the medicinal uses of trees and studying animal tracks.

The day ended with dinner in the boma around a roaring fire.  The food was great, the wine was superb and the setting unforgettable!

The next day began with another visit to the site of the lion kill - the lions had left during the night, but the remains of the giraffe was now firmly the property of a six hungry hyeanas - and a group of very hopeful vultures.  They argued over every morsel, with the hyeans sending the vultures flying with huge wing beats every few minutes.

After spending a long time watching the bone crushing power of the hyeana's jaws and the nimble movements of the vultures, the group returned to camp for a quick breakfast before packing up and heading for the Kruger National Park.

"Shrek" trundled up to the Orpen Gate of the Kruger National Park.  It was to prove a magnificent day of game viewing - buffalo, lion, rhino, elephant, giraffe, hippo, crocodile, African Fish Eagles, a Bateleur Eagle taking a bath and so much more!!!

It was a really great day that ended with a relaxed dinner around the campfire and a round or two of Amarula Liqueur!

A healthy breakfast started the following day before everyone spent quite some time (and some, a lot of money!) in the curio shop.  Under the eaves of the curio shop, Fruit Bats hang suspended waiting for dusk to arrive to go out in the search for food.  For the humans, the day consisted of taking a leisurely drive from Skukuza Camp to the more southerly camp of Lower Sabie.

The road runs parallel to the Sabie River for quite a distance and offered the opportunity to see crocodiles, hippos and a wide variety of water birds.  In contrast to menacing looking crocodiles, vervet monkeys groomed and played at the edge of the road.  We drifted past many animals including giraffe, impala, kudu, bushbuck, zebra, wildebeest and waterbuck.

The last spot of the evening was at Sunset Dam, where hippos - with their backs covered in water lettuce - occasionally lifted their heads into view.  The variety of water birds was astounding, as were the number of mammals who visited the pan in just 20 minutes.

The setting sun indicated it was time to head for camp where the tents had been pitched for a stay of two nights.  Dinner, a lot of laughter and another glass of Amarula completed the day.

The brave decision was taken to embark on an early morning game drive the next morning - and what a great decision it turned out to be!

The game drive proved incredible - with sightings of both black and white rhino!  There were many animals and birds to be seen; most memorable of which must have been the interaction between a warthog and a Saddle Billed Stork.  No-one knows quite what the warthog was interested in, but the bird was having no part in it!

A late breakfast was served back at camp, before some went off to write postcards and others attended to the necessities - such as laundry.  A restful afternoon spent in camp ended when the group managed to get places on one of Kruger National Parks Night Drive vehicles.  On this outing they were able to add another animal to their sighting list - Jackal!

They returned a little chilly, but were soon warmed up with piping hot beef potjie, vegetables, good South African red wine (and dare I say - some more Amarula!)

The following day was our last at Lower Sabie and everyone lent a hand in derigging the camp.  Before leaving there was time to have one last moment down by the river in the shade of magnificent tall Fig Trees and Fever Trees.

The day ended in yet another beautiful place - this time sunset overlooking the Crocodile River at Hippo Pools - an apt name indeed as hippos frolicked in the water and wandered around on the sandbanks.

Night set in and a pasta dinner was enjoyed before everyone headed for bed fairly early - no Amarula tonight!  It's time to dig passports out from the bottom of the bags - tomorrow finds the group in Swaziland!

The day began with breakfast at Hippo Restaurant in Komatipoort, the border town between South Africa and Mocambique.  Then it was time to head off into another country - Swaziland.  The formalities complete at the border post, Shrek trundled off down the road - and found this sign along the way.

Camp was set up in short order at Hlane Game Park and before long visitors arrived to greet the group -  warthogs and ostriches!The ladies had their first experience of showering in only the dim flickering light of a kerosene lamp - there is no electricity in Hlane!  There may have been only a little romantic light provided by paraffin lamps, but at least the water was piping hot!  The day ended around the campfire - ghost stories and jokes flowed before weary bodies wandered off to bed.

The morning began with breakfast, followed by a game drive - the cheetah remained elusive, but a group of lionesses sat and posed for the wildly clicking cameras.

Again on the trail of the cheetah in the afternoon, two large white rhino were found - but still no cheetah.  The rhino were relaxed and calm and came within a few feet of the the vehicle.

In the evening, a performance by a group of traditional Swazi Dancers set a festive party atmosphere for the night.  Joyce, Linda, Carol, Karen and Kirsten joined in and applauded loudly at the exotic steps of the dancers.  A fun night under starry skies, sipping good South African wine and accompanied by loads of laughter!

Sunrise over camp heralded the start of a new day; a day in which Swaziland would be left behind and the group would again find themselves in South Africa.  Last photographs were taken of magnificent Tree Orchids before the journey to South Africa began.  Along the way a Royal high-speed cavalcade roared past Shrek - Swaziland being ruled by a King.

After crossing the border, the road to the Umfolozi Game Reserve lay ahead.  Having obtained fresh provisions, Shrek followed the path (not a road, just a path!) to the Reserve.  There "home" for the next two nights was found - Masinda Lodge.

The Lodge is a private 9-bed facility set on a hilltop with views of rivers to one side and mountains to the other.  A very special place indeed to spend the last few days of this part of the Tour.

The next day revolved around finding animals among the rolling hills of the Umfolozi Game Reserve in Kwa-Zulu Natal.  The province was home to Shaka Zulu and the mighty Zulu nation.  The fighting spirit of the Zulu people was reflected in a fierce contest between two bull elephants - they pushed and shoved each other, with ears flapping and the shrill sound of trumpeting filling the air.  An awesome display of strength and determination.

This Park is famous for its population of Rhino and as the morning wore on, sightings of rhino, giraffe, zebra, elephant, warthog, wildebeest, Nyala Kudu and many others were noted.

Lunch was a relaxed affair before setting out on an afternoon drive that ended with another magnificent sunset and dinner around a roaring campfire (over which marshmallows were roasted for dessert!)

Sadly it was time to leave this wonderful land of green fertile hills and return to Johannesburg for a one night stop over before flying off to Botswana.

The drive through the Park in the morning was not uneventful, with many animals being seen.  Early spring flowers had begun to flower adding bright spots of colour against the lush green grasses.  Lunch was enjoyed in the gardens of a historic home that has stood for over a century. 

The sun was low in the sky when Beckley House was reached - everyone took a long hot bath or shower, ate a great meal and then cuddled up in large comfy beds for a good nights sleep.

A mid-morning flight to Botswana began the day after a hearty breakfast.  The Chobe National Park is best known for its population of elephant (estimated at 120 000) and its resident Fish Eagles. 

The land was dry and dusty, with only a few bushes still retaining any leaves.  The land will again be turned into a lush garden once the rains arrive in October/November.

The dry conditions are ideal for predators as game must move to the river each day to drink.  A pride of lioness' with their cubs languished in the shade, occasionally entertaining their audience with their playful antics.

Baboons grooming one another, Lilac Breasted Rollers and a host of other animals lined the way to the camp for the next two nights - a camp set deep in the African bush under magnificent stars.  A stampede of Zebra through one side of the camp caused great excitement, as did the sound of elephants chewing on twigs close to camp throughout the night.  A simply incredible day that cannot be put into words!

After a night filled with the sounds of the African night, an early morning game drive proved to again be filled with excitement.  Birds - from the large to small - floated through the air and dazzled everyone with their colours and beauty. 

There was no shortage of the "big and hairies" either - elephants, buffalo, zebra, the rare Sable and the even harder to find Roan Antelope all put in an appearance.

Another highlight of the day was the sighting of a Pearl Spotted Owl - a small Owl that is no larger than the average coffee mug!

A late breakfast was served on return to camp with an hour or two of relaxation around the camp before setting off for a boat trip down the magnificent Chobe River.

There is just no way to adequately describe the boat ride; friends laughing together, sipping wine, munching on snacks while the river gently flowed below the boat.  Crocodiles, hippos, elephants, buffalo, the rare Chobe Bushbuck and numerous water birds watched as the boat quietly passed by.  Fish Eagles called from their lofty perches as elephants swam across the river and hippos emerged at random from beneath the water.

The last evening in camp was a merry affair, with all taking a hot shower under zillions of stars! 

Chobe National Park was left behind as the group made their way to the Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe - one of the natural wonders of the world.  The tour of the Falls started with a visit to a statue erected in honour of David Livingstone - the man who named the Falls after the then Queen of England, Victoria.  Spray from the Falls settled on skin and created a special memory that will not easily be forgotten!

From the steep climb down into Devils Cataract to the walk along the Main Falls, the "smoke that thunders" (a name which refers to the thundering sound of the water cascading down into the Zambezi Gorge and throwing a fine spray high into the air) is a sight that touches every sense - touch, smell, sound, sight and taste whilst filling the soul with awe.

Sadly all things come to an end - with this trip ending in the magnificent grounds of the Victoria Falls Hotel in Zimbabwe. 

Friendships have been forged that will last a lifetime, memories have been etched in the minds and souls of everyone involved and Africa has buried herself into hearts and minds.

Thank you to those who have followed the site, and our most grateful thanks to Kristin, Karen, Carol, Joyce and Linda for being such wonderful participants on our Spring Safari! 

Our thanks too to Helen of RTTC, the webmaster who puts our updates onto the website from her office in Johannesburg while we are out having a wonderful time in the bush!

 

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