Waving goodbye to Zambia we approached the Malawi border post, paid a hefty US$51 road toll and got through immigration and customs with little fuss (other than having to disturb the Immigration Officers game of bano (a local board game).  Our first impression of Malawi revolved around the seething mass of humanity that relentlessly presses in on all sides.  

Driving along the road, houses and people inhabit every stretch unceasingly.  The homes are made of fired mud bricks unlike the concrete houses in Zambia.  The women wear long wrap-around skirts, mindful not to show their knees or too much leg - bare breasts are fine, knees are not!

Driving in Malawi is a hazard in itself, bicycles and bicycle taxis (passengers ride "side-saddle", seated on a small cushion on the carrier of a bicycle) weave dangerously across the road, while minibus taxi drivers haven't heard that there are such things as "rules of the road" and the cattle, dogs and goats haven't any road sense either!

We spent our first few days at Kiboko Camp in Lilongwe getting a feel for Malawi.  We met some interesting folk, including Jacques van Wyk, an adventurer of note, and a group of youngsters from the UK who were camping without such luxuries as mattresses, knives, plates etc.  They did however enjoy the local Carlsberg Lager, and the fact that it is so much cheaper than in the UK!

We then began to make our way southwards to Blantyre, stopping first at Dedza Pottery for a lovely lunch.  This little oasis has good food and charming pottery; much of which displays a great deal of talent and a sense of humour!

We had escaped all forms of red tape and hassles in the nearly four months we had been away, so I shouldn't be surprised that our luck eventually ran out!  We were on our way to Blantyre when we were stopped at a roadblock and asked for our "toll" receipt, which Alan handed over with a smile.  He was answered with a scowl and told to pull over.  An hour of deliberations later, it was decided that we had not paid for the using the road to Blantyre, but only the road north to the border with Tanzania and so we had to cough up another US$34.  When we got to Blantyre we paid the office of the Roads Transport Authority a visit; while we never got any admission of the fact, we are pretty sure that we paid the correct amount the first time, but that our full itinerary was not written on the receipt, hence the problem.  What we did get was a nicely typed letter saying that we have paid enough to travel throughout Malawi which we can present at all future roadblocks.

We then proceeded along to Blantyre, travelling through frequent towns all cluttered with street sellers and markets.  Clothes, electrical plugs, cellphone charging units, fresh fish, fruit, vegetables, sugar cane, lenths of wood, furniture and greasy yellow french fries cooked in steel woks all combine to create a vibrant and colourful mix of confusion.

Once in Blantyre, we made contact with Paul and Beryl, whom we were put in contact with through a mutual friend.  They made us most welcome in their home and Paul gave us so much invaluable information on travelling in Malawi.  Thank you Paul and Beryl for your kind hospitality and all the great advice!  

Following Paul's suggestion we moved on south again to the Lower Shire Valley and the Lengwe National Park.  The once rundown lodge and campsite has been taken over by new owners who have transformed the neglected infrastructure into a lovely and relaxing retreat, Nyala Lodge. The Park does not have all of the Big Five, but they do have over 2000 buffalos, many antelope and the Sykes Monkey.  The birding is fantastic, but the cherry on the top is the friendly hospitality shown by co-owner Max and his staff.  The food is also really good!

The next few days include a trip to Zomba Plateau, Liwonde National Park and then it's off to the lake!!

Our sincerest thanks to Paul and Beryl, Max and the staff of Nyala Lodge
and Walter and Annette for their warmth, hospitality and kindness to "strangers".