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Houston,
we have a problem......
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With
our appetites for strawberries fully sated, we sadly departed beautiful
Zomba Plauteau and headed off northwards towards Liwonde National Park
and Lake Malawi.
Not
far from Liwonde, a sudden, and rather horrid grating noise, brought us
to an abrupt halt in the village of Machinga. Alan tried to put
the vehicle in gear, the horrid grating noise returned. No doubt
the propshaft or the back diff. had a major problem.
We
immediately realised that we wouldn't be going anywhere so made plans of
action... firstly, a safe place to spend the night, secondly, to get a
low loader to pick us up and return us to Blantyre.
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A local chap pointed us
in the direction of Kasupe Lodge, owned by Jack and Pauline.
This is a brand new resthouse and campsite that Jack and Pauline are
slowly building up. They are just the most wonderful people
who took us into their home, gave us a meal and the opportunity to
have a bath. Our most grateful thanks to Jack and Pauline for
their kindness and help.
Walter, the chap we met
from Nyala Lodge at Lengwe, was amazing as he phoned around and
arranged for Zagaff Transport to send a low loader to rescue
us. Thanks Walter!!!
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The next morning the low loader
arrived and Alan, using 4-wheel drive was able to drive onto the
vehicle before we jumped into the cab and headed back down south,
past Zomba and onto Blantyre. Here we need to thank the guys
from Zagaff Transport for getting us, and our stricken Mog, back
to Blantyre.
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To cut a rather long
story short, we ended up at Automotive Products; they, until very
recently, were the Mercedes agents and they have staff with Unimog
experience. It didn't take George and his crew long to
discover that it was indeed the propshaft; the splines had worn away
to nothing and a replacement was needed from South Africa.
Hence Alan flew to Johannesburg. on the 6.00am flight and returned
twelve hours later with the part in hand, which was fitted the very
next day and we were on our way on the following day.
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So, we again drove
northwards, past Zomba and towards Liwonde National Park.
Along the side of the road men sit, some in the blazing sun, others
under tiny shelters, mindlessly crushing rocks with large
hammers. They pile up the fruits of their hard labour in the
hope that someone will come along and buy a load.
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We arrived at Liwonde
and were immediately faced with a bridge that didn't seem strong
enough to carry a person, let alone our great big Mog!! Alan
gingerly drove over the creaking timbers which, fortunately, proved
stronger than they looked! We were soon looking at herds of
Impala, waterbuck, kudu and elephant.
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We spent our first two nights at
Chinguni Hills, a lovely new campsite that overlooks large lagoons,
where elephant roam and water birds flutter constantly. The
solitude and peace were the perfect antidote to the problems we had
endured. Stress-free and entirely relaxed, we moved to Mvuu
Camp which is situated on the banks of the Shire River.
While on our way, we came across a truck and small utility vehicle,
both stuck in a riverbed. Alan was soon in discussion with the
relevant drivers and once towing points had been identified, we were
rescuing them from the sand. Great fun!
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Having had our chance to help someone
else, we booked a boat trip, and being a Sunday afternoon, the other
guests were leaving or had left, so we were on our own and were able
to ask the guide to concentrate on birds. Wow!! This has to be
one of the very best boat trips we have ever done.
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Hippos popped up and eyed us
suspiciously, huge crocodiles slid silently through the water on
either side, while the prolific birdlife had us flashing through the
bird book at a rapid pace. A pair of swallows have built their nest
on the inside of the boats' canopy and, as we were floating down the
river, they darted in and out of their nest just above our heads.
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Houston, we have another problem...
We returned back to our
cosy campsite, where the resident tree squirrel and a Bohm's
Bee-eater both vied for our attention, when an sms came through on
the cellphone that Louis, the manager running our business while we
were away, had been taken into hospital and had an operation on his
lung and was in i.c.u.
There was, of course, no
debate. We packed up and early the next morning returned
southwards, passed Zomba Plauteau and were in Blantyre by early
afternoon. The fridge and the deep-freeze had to be defrosted,
all our perishable food given away, the valuables secured and the
vehicle packed up. Within twenty-four hours of leaving Liwonde
we arrived at Johannesburg International Airport, having flown on
the same 6.00am flight that Alan had taken a week earlier to get the
spare propshaft. Our Mog is still in Blantyre with the
wonderful folks at Automotive Products. It will be transported
back to South Africa in the next few weeks for as long a time as it
takes for Louis to get fully well and able to take over once
again.
So, for the moment our
adventure has crashed and burned, but only for the moment!! As
soon as Louis is back in control, we will take our beloved Mog and
travel via Mozambique (the east coast this time), up to Malawi where
we will visit our new friends at Automotive Products and we will
resume our trip from the very place that it stopped.
We have learnt so much,
met such incredible people and have an understanding of Africa that
short holiday trips do not give you. We say a huge thank you
to all those people who have touched over lives over the past 5
months; you have all become indelible memories in the continent that
we love so much.
Our website updates will
continue, so until the next time, WATCH THIS SPACE!
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Bohm's Bee-eater
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A colourful Agama at Chinguni Hills
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Highlights of the week:
Best Campsite: Chinguni Hills and Mvuu Camp in Liwonde
National Park.
Best meal: Chinese food at the Merriman Lodge in Blantyre -
scrumptious!!
Best moment: The boat trip along the Shire River.
Worst moment: Having to return to South Africa!
For more on the campsites we have visited, see the Tips on Malawi page.
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