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Houston, we have a problem......
-

With our appetites for strawberries fully sated, we sadly departed beautiful Zomba Plauteau and headed off northwards towards Liwonde National Park and Lake Malawi.

 

Not far from Liwonde, a sudden, and rather horrid grating noise, brought us to an abrupt halt in the village of Machinga.  Alan tried to put the vehicle in gear, the horrid grating noise returned.  No doubt the propshaft or the back diff. had a major problem.

 

We immediately realised that we wouldn't be going anywhere so made plans of action... firstly, a safe place to spend the night, secondly, to get a low loader to pick us up and return us to Blantyre.  


A local chap pointed us in the direction of Kasupe Lodge, owned by Jack and Pauline.  This is a brand new resthouse and campsite that Jack and Pauline are slowly building up.  They are just the most wonderful people who took us into their home, gave us a meal and the opportunity to have a bath.  Our most grateful thanks to Jack and Pauline for their kindness and help.

Walter, the chap we met from Nyala Lodge at Lengwe, was amazing as he phoned around and arranged for Zagaff Transport to send a low loader to rescue us.  Thanks Walter!!!

The next morning the low loader arrived and Alan, using 4-wheel drive was able to drive onto the vehicle before we jumped into the cab and headed back down south, past Zomba and onto Blantyre.  Here we need to thank the guys from Zagaff Transport for getting us, and our stricken Mog, back to Blantyre.  

 

To cut a rather long story short, we ended up at Automotive Products; they, until very recently, were the Mercedes agents and they have staff with Unimog experience.  It didn't take George and his crew long to discover that it was indeed the propshaft; the splines had worn away to nothing and a replacement was needed from South Africa.  Hence Alan flew to Johannesburg. on the 6.00am flight and returned twelve hours later with the part in hand, which was fitted the very next day and we were on our way on the following day.

 

So, we again drove northwards, past Zomba and towards Liwonde National Park.  Along the side of the road men sit, some in the blazing sun, others under tiny shelters, mindlessly crushing rocks with large hammers.  They pile up the fruits of their hard labour in the hope that someone will come along and buy a load.  

 

We arrived at Liwonde and were immediately faced with a bridge that didn't seem strong enough to carry a person, let alone our great big Mog!!  Alan gingerly drove over the creaking timbers which, fortunately, proved stronger than they looked!  We were soon looking at herds of Impala, waterbuck, kudu and elephant.

We spent our first two nights at Chinguni Hills, a lovely new campsite that overlooks large lagoons, where elephant roam and water birds flutter constantly.  The solitude and peace were the perfect antidote to the problems we had endured.  Stress-free and entirely relaxed, we moved to Mvuu Camp which is situated on the banks of the Shire River.   While on our way, we came across a truck and small utility vehicle, both stuck in a riverbed.  Alan was soon in discussion with the relevant drivers and once towing points had been identified, we were rescuing them from the sand.  Great fun!

 

 

Having had our chance to help someone else, we booked a boat trip, and being a Sunday afternoon, the other guests were leaving or had left, so we were on our own and were able to ask the guide to concentrate on birds.  Wow!! This has to be one of the very best boat trips we have ever done.  

Hippos popped up and eyed us suspiciously, huge crocodiles slid silently through the water on either side, while the prolific birdlife had us flashing through the bird book at a rapid pace. A pair of swallows have built their nest on the inside of the boats' canopy and, as we were floating down the river, they darted in and out of their nest just above our heads.


Houston, we have another problem...

We returned back to our cosy campsite, where the resident tree squirrel and a Bohm's Bee-eater both vied for our attention, when an sms came through on the cellphone that Louis, the manager running our business while we were away, had been taken into hospital and had an operation on his lung and was in i.c.u.

There was, of course, no debate.  We packed up and early the next morning returned southwards, passed Zomba Plauteau and were in Blantyre by early afternoon.  The fridge and the deep-freeze had to be defrosted, all our perishable food given away, the valuables secured and the vehicle packed up.  Within twenty-four hours of leaving Liwonde we arrived at Johannesburg International Airport, having flown on the same 6.00am flight that Alan had taken a week earlier to get the spare propshaft.  Our Mog is still in Blantyre with the wonderful folks at Automotive Products.  It will be transported back to South Africa in the next few weeks for as long a time as it takes for Louis to get fully well and able to take over once again.  

So, for the moment our adventure has crashed and burned, but only for the moment!!  As soon as Louis is back in control, we will take our beloved Mog and travel via Mozambique (the east coast this time), up to Malawi where we will visit our new friends at Automotive Products and we will resume our trip from the very place that it stopped.  

We have learnt so much, met such incredible people and have an understanding of Africa that short holiday trips do not give you.  We say a huge thank you to all those people who have touched over lives over the past 5 months; you have all become indelible memories in the continent that we love so much.

Our website updates will continue, so until the next time, WATCH THIS SPACE!

Bohm's Bee-eater A colourful Agama at Chinguni Hills

 

Highlights of the week:  
Best Campsite: Chinguni Hills and Mvuu Camp in Liwonde National Park. 
Best meal: Chinese food at the Merriman Lodge in Blantyre - scrumptious!!
Best moment: The boat trip along the Shire River.
Worst moment: Having to return to South Africa!

For more on the campsites we have visited, see the Tips on Malawi page.

 

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