Our first big decision was on the route to take home - to go via Zimbabwe which was experiencing some political problems or via Mozambique with its horrendous roads.

With much trepidation we chose to go the Mozambique route; we had read of the all the corruption and difficulties at the borders, the bribe-eager traffic police and the almost unpassable roads.  We did figure however that they would be a minor inconvenience compared to being thrown in jail in Zimbabwe should we do something to offend the "powers that be". 

So, off we chugged down winding roads, through bustling markets and passed the inevitable wandering folk on bicycles.  The only problem getting into Mozambique was the exorbitant cost - even the half-page photostated form you fill in to get a visa costs US$1!

We then found a very basic campsite in Tete for the night.  The local children found their strange white visitors a total curiosity; and found Alan's hairy chest fascinating.  The one little girl even tried to make little plaits in it!

The lure of the ocean kept pulling us eastwards, but first we had to negotiate the "roads". There is no way for me to adequately describe the road conditions and photos just don't do justice to the reality.  The floods of 2000 have decimated the tar for hundreds of kilometers.  Just keeping up a speed of 20kms is a triumph!

We did see places where the sides of the roads are being checked for landmines, and upgrading of the roads will undoubtedly follow.  There are patches where the road has been retarred and even painted with white lines - but these short reprieves are short lived!

And then, finally, after hours of heart-stopping bumps we saw the crystal blue waters of the warm Indian Ocean.  The sun was just setting as we rushed down to the shore to sink our toes into the crisp white beach sand.  A marvellous fish dinner followed before we fell into a grateful sleep after a hard day on the road.

We travelled down the coast over the next few days staying in various coastal oasis'.   

I could go on forever about the huge crayfish we cooked for dinner (frequently!), the warm clear water, the time we nearly broke our backs and got blisters by helping fisherman haul in their nets, watching the elegant dhows as they sailed by, trying to learn to scuba dive, watching incredible sunsets and generally "chilling" as I have never before.

We moved on further down the coast to Barra Lodge where we spent a wonderful few days.  Their advert says their beaches are "squeaky clean"; and they really are!!  As you walk along the pristine white beach, the sand squeaks beneath your feet!

The seafood buffet, the fun nights on the beach and the friendly staff made us want to stay forever.  But alas, we could not....

All is now well with Louis (our factory manager who took ill), and the rainy season in Mozambique/Malawi is coming to an end.  That means that we will soon be able to answer the call of the road.  Before that however we will be taking on a scuba dive course and spending some time travelling locally.  The plan after that is to head up Mozambique, revisiting the wonderful places we have discovered and finding others, before arriving back at the point at which we turned around in Malawi.  Then it's a whole new adventure all over again.

Watch this space......