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Mog
Makeover
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From the freezing cold of Zomba Plateau
to the heat of Lake Malawi, from the elegance of the Riley's and the
Mount Soche Hotels to the brick houses of the local people, the one
constant in Malawi is the friendly and helpful people.
Our first reminder of this was the
Malawian border officials who were welcoming and friendly. Once over with the formalities at the
border we headed straight for Blantyre, where we stayed at Doogles.
This is the meeting point for most travellers and it is a good place
to catch up with information on where folks have recently been.
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We had the Mog serviced
at Automotive Products, the same place where we left our vehicle
when we had to return to South Africa. On the right Alan is
pictured with Stuart, one of the owners for Automotive who we have
become friends with. Our thanks to George and the staff of
Automotive for their great service and for ensuring that our Mog is
ready for the next stretch of our journey.
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We left Blantyre and made our way to Zomba Plateau where we stayed
at KuChawe Trout Farm as we had done before. The days were
warm but by late afternoon the shadows were long and the cold began
to seep into our bones. We enjoyed dinner one night with a
German couple, Rafe and Eva who are travelling Africa on
motorbikes! We also indulged in fresh strawberries,
gooseberries and raspberries, grown on the plateau, with ice cream
we had brought from Blantyre.
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In desperate need of thawing out our hands and feet we carefully
negotiated the steep descents of Zomba and headed for Lake
Malawi. When we were called back to South Africa the last time
we didn't quite make it as far as the Lake, so a huge celebration
was called for when we arrived at Chembe Eagles Nest at Cape Maclear
on the shores of Lake Malawi.
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From the cool comfort of our awning we watched men in dugout canoes
pole past us on their way to their fishing grounds while fish
eagles, egrets, cormorants, hamerkops, and Yellow-billed Kites
wheeled overhead. The days were warm to very warm and the
nights refreshingly cool, while the sunsets over the water were
magnificent!
We did some diving but found that
this freshwater environment is not as colourful or varied as the
ocean, but we enjoyed the experience and the swim-throughs.
After a week of soaking up the calm relaxation of Cape Maclear we
headed to Senga Bay for a night, then onto Nkotakhota for another
night. Our next point of call was Kande Beach, a regular
stop-over for most of the overland trucks. We were able to
catch on news from the north, swop stories and generally mix and
mingle with like-minded travellers. The biggest thing that
happened however, was the makeover our Mog got!
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The artist, Pink Floyd, begins...
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The finished product!
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It started with a hand-written letter from Pink Floyd - the
Artist. He offered to paint, in typical Malawian style, on our
vehicle. We found a picture we liked and Pink Floyd set about
decorating the back panel of the Mog. It took him less than 5
hours to finish his masterpiece; we then had just about everyone in
the campsite coming to admire his handiwork. It is indeed a
very colourful and humourous addition to our paintwork!
We are on the road again
heading north. There are still a few places on our "must
visit" list before we wave goodbye to Malawi and say hello to
Tanzania.
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The "restaurant" at The
Wheelhouse
in Senga Bay doesn't have windows,
a roof, or any finishes - but it does
have lots of character!
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This large Rock Monitor
kept his beady eye on us as
we shared his home at
Chembe Eagles Nest.
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Highlights:
Best meal: It's hard to decide between the Strawberries,
Gooseberries and Raspberries with ice cream we had for dessert at
Zomba Plateau or the Strawberries with Raspberry Sauce and ice cream
we had for breakfast at the Lake.
Best moment: When we arrived at Lake Malawi!! This
is the point we didn't reach last time around, so we were thrilled
to make it this time.
Worst moment: When we discovered that freshwater diving
is not anywhere near as colourful or varied as ocean diving. Interesting people
we've met:
- Rafe and Eva; this adventurous German couple are exploring Africa
on motorbikes. They are shipping their bikes to Australia from
Kenya to continue their adventure.
- Glenn and Nahoka; this great couple run Scuba Shack at Cape
Maclear on Lake Malawi. They have superb reputations as diving
instructors and the lake is a great place to learn to dive.
- Phil and the Nomad passengers at Kande Beach.
- Temba and his passengers that we also met at Kande Beach.
- Nat, Eddie and their passengers, particularly Kay, John and Maria,
who we also met at Kande Beach.
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